BAS KOSTERS

The show ran almost an hour late, but it was all worth while: as usual Bas brings a lot of energy and fun to the, usually rather stiff and dull, Amsterdam Fashion Week. The show opened with an performance by Bas and a few of his dancers, and the theme to the show soon became clear: it was all about phones.Items with prints of mobile phones, an upbeat soundtrack featuring songs such as Blondie’s Call Me and Lady Gaga’s Telephone and clever interruptions in the show during which a woman’s voice told us ‘this phone is out of reach’. The collection, called 1,2, Tree, was a reflection on mobile technology, the symbiosis (or rather the clash) of urban life and nature,  and the impact this has on our daily life. However, no one but Bas manages to bring such a conscious and loaded message with such lightness and fun. Thank you Bas, for making us leave with more energy than we came with. Also, I might need those sheer printed scarves in my life.

BRAVOURE

You might remember this upcoming label from one our previous blog posts. Bravoure has only existed for a few seasons, but the girls behind the label have nonetheless managed to create a signature style that involves twenties and thirties inspired garments such as jumpsuits, capes and A-line dresses, whilst at the same time reinventing and improving themselves. Their F/W collection featured art deco prints and black and whites paired with mustards. Although Bravoure designs ‘for the stage’ (their motto: life is our stage), the garments are very wearable in daily life, but bring a little festive element to your look at the same time. However, the girls behind Bravoure are not afraid of a little  drama: at the show the models – in perfect flapper girl hair and make-up, I may add – walked out through heavy velvet curtains onto a smokey catwalk, as if literally entering a stage. Keep an eye out for these girls, they will be going places! You can also visit their shop/atelier on the second floor of Magna Plaza shopping centre every day but monday.

ADO LES SCENTS by HYUN YEU

Although most of the seats remained empty when the show started, those who missed it must have regretted: it was by far the best show we have seen. Unlike the others, everything was perfectly in sync: from the luxurious fabrics, the intricate detailing – such as double lapelled jackets with leather trimmings – right down to the gorgeous boys and the flawless styling by our good friend Sonny Groo. It was a real treat.

INDIVIDUALS by AMFI

Individuals is a brand that is designed by students of the Amsterdam Fashion Institute, and the designers as well as the theme change every half year. This time the collection, named Duals, was inspired by modern urban life but also strongly brought to mind images of the chaos and anarchy on the streets of London during last year’s riots. Although some of the pieces were finger-licking good, they were a little too reminiscent of designers such as Ann Demeulemeester and Yohji Yamamoto. Also, the presentation could have been better: the choreography was so chaotic even the models had a hard time understanding it and the black confetti which was spread over the runway, as if it was covered in debree, made most of the girls slip. However, the scarves and hoodies that covered some of the model’s faces were a nice touch.

JACOB KOK

Project Runway winner Jacob Kok brought us a surpringly wearable collection, inspired by underground caves and mines. Garments, which looked rugged, were made out of fabrics which recalled semi-precious stones. Some of the models were adorned with beautiful glass hatpieces which looked like the alien version of a miner’s hat. Sexy items such as a nineties-Chanel like bra top paired with sturdy worker’s pants, which formed an interesting contradiction. Also the opening of the show was rather interesting: the audience was invited to participate using tiny flashlights as the main lightsource on the first three looks, which were made out of reflective materials. However, after that the rest of the show was rather empty; perhaps due to use of rather inexperienced  models who seemed to lack personality, or because of the dull and straightforward choreography. Jacob Kok may be designing showpieces, he is not a showman.

JAN BOELO

Jan Boelo’s F/W collection was loud and very rock-and-roll, in tune with the raw soundtrack. Models looked like they had just performed on stage or visited an A-list party in Upper East Side. Some of the boys’ looks reminded of the epic head-to-toe leather looks of the F/W 2012 collection by Jil Sander, but in a more playful and youthful manner. With a backdrop of heavy showers, wild or sleek hair and faded make up, the show represented – the slightly less glamourous – journey home in the pooring rain, which was underlined by the use of super shiny fabrics and wobbly high heels. However, no matter how tired or soaked one might become, in these outfits you still look the part.

JIVIKA BIERVLIET

Jivika’s collection Forever Young is both conceptual as well as wearable at the same time. It was based on the idea that, when we are young, we want to grow up as soon as possible, whilst most of us are longing for those carefree days in a world of fantasy and freedom when we have reached adulthood. Jivika believes that growing up is not an obligation, but rather a choice. This is visualized in a collection in soft and delicate materials, such as wool, fleece and fake fur, with playful elements such as a skippy ball covered in felt, or an extra long sleeve that doubles as a skipping rope. Also, the painted teat reminded a little of Givenchy’s piercings for menswear F/W 2012.

MARIJE DE HAAN

Marije de Haan’s collection was inspired by the nineteenth-century robber Black Bart, who was one of the most famous in America. Always dressed to the nines, in a three-piece suit complete with a bowler hat, he was the most polite robber around. Also, he was famous for leaving notes at the scene of the crime.  Black Bart always covered his face to remain anonymous, therefore most of the models’ heads were covered up as well. Before the show started, one of the models took position on the runway in a rather menacing way, his head covered by a big leather collar. The models whose faces were uncovered looked rugged and real; they were not your average pretty young things. Featuring a rather obscure soundtrack of haunting singing paired with the sound of shackles, chains and pick axes, the show gave the even darker impression: that of a past in slavery. Alltogether it was a rather moving experience.

WINDE RIENSTRA

Paired with the show of Marije de Haan, the contrast could not be bigger. Whilst the audience was still recovering from the strong impact the previous show had made, fairy-like models floated by on the catwalk on the elusive tones of harp music. Winde cleverly made use of the strength yet lightness of cardboard in creating her shoes, which were tied to the model’s feet with the thick elastic mailmen use. Winde had clad the girls in intricate origami-like garments made from what appeared to be paper and thin wood, as well as sheer fabrics, which were organically produced. Although the collection was gorgeous, some of the pieces reminded a little too strongly of Iris van Herpen’s designs.

All images by Team Peter Stigter. Also, if you are, like me, fond of a little backstage action, check out this new website that features backstage reports of every show!