Written by Giuliano Bolivar

‘Mahalia Jackson’s  “How I Got Over ” gets me through the mornings…’

Definately Up and Coming, Ireneo is not only a dear friend, but also a designer whose vision and aesthetic I greatly admire. Maybe I never told him, and if I ever did he didn’t believe me, but it is because of him I do what I do these days. Although he promises lighter and more colorful work after his latest collection, “The Year of Magical Thinking” is definitely a project and stage of his life fully charged with all kinds of energy. Find out more about it all right here right now, right below.

G/ Your latest collection’s name “The Year of Magical Thinking” makes me wonder, where do you think you stand right now in your career and life?
I/ Throughout life I knew working hard meant success, working hard meant getting a good grade and being ‘the best’ gave me a sense of self. I believed the better the outcome the more people would appreciate me as a human being. I was always future focused, I never felt the now was good enough. Then my father passed away. It made me feel very small. Nothing I could do in the present moment would change the outcome of the situation. It was just me , my grief and so many things I had to take care of.

My longing to be with him drove me almost insane. I tried to keep a dead man alive…. I wanted to keep him with me. I felt that to live on there had to come a point where I had to let him go, keep him dead….my year of magical thinking is not this collection, it is a fact that this collection already existed before he died but I just couldn’t get to finish it after his death as it would show me and others he trully had passed on and my life continued without him. This year of magical thinking is neurotically reliving our time spend together as to live on would mean letting go…..and his death will become something that had happened in another year. My career? I don’t have one, I just do…I don’t feel I have accomplished anything yet business-wise; no stress, my time will come.

G/ What does this collection mean to you?
I/ Slowing down but getting on with it.

G/ What does this collection feel like? visually and physically.
I/ I feel like a weight has been lifted and I can look forward with excitement, this collection is already put to rest and I have  already started working on a print collection. I’m in the mood for color and just some fun…it will be my I love you but fok you collection; no big concepts just some fun.

G/ How is this collection the next step after “Zusje” and “L”?
I/ The concept behind this collection is irrelevant to the outcome. In the end garments need finishings and should be perfectly fitted. The MA showed me that. Nobody cares if  I cried my eyes out over my father’s death and I called it the year of magical thinking, they just want garments that are beautifully made and make people look beautiful.

G/ If you could choose any place you wanted to display “The Year of magical Thinking” where would you like to see it? where would the whole story come together in your eyes?
I/ Nowhere. It came together. Mission accomplished. Done. Next?

G/ Your design guilty pleasures this far? the things you could not do without in a look?
I/ I like a kitten heel and a pointy nose on a shoe…always have and always will, in or out of fashion, I don’t give a shit. And earrings…just love a big hoop.

G/ The woman you’ve created for the look of “The Year of Magical Thinking” seems to be clearly defined. Who is she?
I/ I like an elegant woman who is not afraid of her own sexuality, no need to show your fanny, just  get dressed and look sensual.

G/ The square and rectangular shimmering metal detailing work so strongly with her, are these details accesories or weapons in this story?
I/ Accessories…beautifully made with the help of my dear friend Simon Rees. All the jewelry pieces can stand on their own. I’m not afraid to be a stylistic designer. Styling is key for this collection, it gives a sense of realness to it.

G/ Is she close to you? someone you idolize? or someone you’d like to know?
I/ Good god…She is me without my ‘stache and saggy tits, would you buy into that?

G/ I know music is a huge part of your work. Was there a specific record, a song or a yobe video that was on loop during your working process?
I/ Mostly gospel, Mahalia Jackson’s  “How I Got Over ” gets me through the mornings.

G/ Who do you look up to?
I/ I have stopped looking up to people for now. As it comes with expectations which won’t be lived up to. I appreciate many people though: Myrza de Muycnk, Maarten van der Horst, Lello Ascione, Jenny Postle, Matt Grant (very good-looking too), Kerhao Yin, Julia Reiman, Andrei Amado, Frida Hofslagare,  Jamie Cockrill, Daisy Bulter, Helen Bullocks, William Henry,  Erna Einarsdottir…good lord so many…just all my classmates from the MA, we worked our asses off.

You have got to have friends.

G. What do you love?
I/ a mirror that makes me look taller and skinnier. I deeply enjoy flossing my teeth 3 times a day and a glass of deep red wine.

More info: www.ireneociammella.com/