From the three fashion capitals in the world, fashion folks often like to refer to London as the most innovative fashion scene, Paris as the godmother of it all and New York for its largely commercial successes. While it is not necessary to argue with these generalizations (as they are just generalizations) – it is fact that each city knows its undercurrent movements that eventually will shift the cities contemporary relevance. While the fashion world predominantly still is worshipping the idea of ‘heritage’ and the ‘sartorial’ – underneath New York’s capitalist commercial fashion Mecca there is a counter culture slowly thriving. We could almost consider this movement perhaps an anti movement, but even that kind of description would not do it justice. It does not necessarily feel like the idea of ‘anti’ as in rebelling towards the established. It’s more like while the fashion world is pulling hairs, over which designer goes to what fashion house next and how the hell Hedi Slimane can violate such heritage brand like Yves Saint Laurent or how to save Haute Couture of dying out – New York’s undercurrent movement presents a world where all of these things are not relevant at all. A place where the idea of the mundane, the normal and mass production act as the main guide in creating this world that is free of the debauchery of the high end luxury fashion market.

Family – Directed by Alexa Karolinski

Take designers Zoë Latta & Mike Eckhaus that work under the name Eckhaus Latta. Both have their roots in fine art rather than fashion and see their collections as ‘physical manifestations’ of conversations they have together. For their latest Autumn/Winter 2013 collection the conversation was about the notion of anxiety, and how this manifest in social roles and the way you represent yourself through clothing. With this approach, they introduce the idea of fashion as a dialogue rather than a conclusion, inventively dismissing the discussion whether what they make is fashion or art. For themselves as much as for their audience – presenting a new vision on fashion that is inclusive rather than exclusive.

In the usage of materials this translates in fabrics that are so close and common to us we have forgotten about them, like a fake Shearling that has close resemblance to carpet, shoes that are made out of pelt from a Ikea rug, mosquito net shorts and the mixing of natural and high performance sports materials. Next to the collections they manage to extend their vision with a set of collaborations, like for example the Brad & You deodorant they developed together with trend forecasting agency K-Hole. Brad & You is a somewhat tongue-in-cheek reference to the pits of Brad Pit, who appeared in the Chanel No.5 campaign not so long ago. This deodorant however consists of “dirt, counterfeit Chanel No. 5, vetiver, rose, Marlboro Lights, pepper, smoked barley, saliva, and lanolin.” Eckhaus Latta is definitely one of the most interesting design duo’s in New York at the moment and for now they might be considered subversive and not everyone might get it – but it is just a matter of time until the fashion world will catch up on this new understanding of luxury market.

Check out for more on the Eckhaus Latta website.

Dinner – Directed by Alexa Karolinski