Written by Maite Catti

In the last week of October the 34th edition of the São Paulo Fashion Week took place for the winter season of 2013-2014. An upcoming event which seems to follow the pace of the Brazilian economy overall and a week during which the largest city of Brazil is visited by fashion press from all over the world. Here an inside look of the most promising designers of the São Paulo Fashion Week.

Alexandre Herchcovitch

Alexandre Herchcovitch is one of Brasil’s most international known designers, also showing during New York fashion week. With his latest collection he showed us an interesting take on the much seen peplums. He deconstructed them and often placed them asymmetrically on the body creating volumes, ruffles and pleads. The moulage technique was clearly visible which made the collection playful in a way, but keeping its femininity with an accent on the waist, and with volume in the skirts resembling a modern take on the 50’s image. The different soft flower prints together added to the image of a tender, poetic and romantic Herchcovitch woman.

Ronaldo Fraga

Ronaldo Fraga is one of Brazil’s most poetic designers and in this collection the work of poet and illustrator Paulo Marques de Oliviera served as a direct inspiration. Overall it was a very pure and serene collection; the clothes were loosely fitted; natural materials as silk, cotton and linnen were used extensively; chunky knitwear and some Asian influences have been shown in the collars, flower prints and long braids.

Teca por Helo Rocha

The traditions of England and its 60’s fashion was the main influence for Helo Rocha’s F/W collection. The models were ladylike but edgy given accessories such as chunky necklaces, bold sunglasses and garments with materials as patent leather or cow skins. Also gold coloured metallic’s added to this tone. Some hunting elements were added with prints of ducks, dogs and horseshoes and with the cow skins used for coats and skirts.

 Tufi Duek

The Tufi Duek woman was powerful, mysterious, dark and sensual; a woman in control. The starting point for this collection was the classic movie ‘The Birds’ by Alfred Hitchcock. A celebration of the female body, showing curves and accentuating the hips with ruffles and added leather pieces. The chest and neck were either completely covered or exposed, with different necklines. The fact that the legs were covered, with hemlines never far above the knee, emphasised the powerful silhouette and character. The materials; leather, waxed lace, wool, lurex and feathers, the colour palette; black, bordeaux, red and dark green. The accessories consisted of long black leather gloves and knee high laced boots, which all added to the mystery and sensuality of Tufi Duek’s show.

More SPFW to come! Keep an eye on the website for the next few days.

Photography by Julian Moura Busquets