Written by Philippe Pourhashemi 

A thriving metropolis, Seoul is a seductive destination that has plenty to offer. With its young population, countless bars and cafés -as well as 24 hour shopping opportunities- it never stands still, embracing the future and its restless energy.

General Idea AW2012

Being an inspiring and aspirational city, Seoul puts an emphasis on style and luxury. Koreans worship designer goods and people dress up at the shows, proudly showing off their latest gear. When it comes to fashion, Korean designers have managed to carve their own niche, offering a smart balance between sleek sportswear and deluxe minimalism. In fact, designers such as Juun.J or Songzio have presented their collections in Paris for a while now, getting increasingly noticed by members of the international press and influential buyers.

Beyond Closet AW2012

Korean menswear is definitely Seoul’s forte, with collections ranging from twisted preppy to progressive tailoring. Inspired by Americana and classic British tailoring, General Idea and Beyond Closet are two labels that are popular in Korea right now, delivering the kind of pieces trendy guys are after.

Reworked menswear staples account for the success of  such brands, which are more focused on lifestyle than trends. Mountaineering garments and fishing-inspired outerwear were recurrent in many shows, echoing the market’s appreciation for heritage clothing and urban ease.

Korean men are obsessed with trench coats and countless incarnations of it could be seen in almost every collection. They also love wearing suits and are drawn towards the idea of sartorial formality, which, in fact, echoes some of the society’s attitudes and core values.Experimental designers do, however, have a space within Seoul FashionWeek.

Resurrection AW2012

If you like a bit of military toughness mixed with intricate embellishment, Resurrection is your go to label for next season. Juyoung Lee, one of the few female designers specialized in menswear there, has a knack for combining strict lines with sensual fabrics, using leathers, prints, checks and furs in innovative ways.

Groundwave AW2012

Groundwave, designed by Kim Sun Ho, is currently one of Seoul’s most promising and forward-thinking labels. Using quilting, contrasting patchwork, a subdued palette and streamlined shapes, the collection looked fresh and modern, despite referencing traditional Korean elements.

Seize Sei Zosunga AW2012

Seize Sei Zosunga, a new brand launched by Sung Ah Cho, was a great illustration of Korean menswear at its best: neat tailoring, unusual finishings and hybrid garments, combining fabrics and textures, such as knitwear and tweed. The young designer -who graduated from Polimoda in Florence- showed clothes that were comfortable and structured at the same time.

Hybridity was, in fact, a major theme throughout the collections, highlighting the designers’ ability to marry separate worlds. Within the packed womenswear schedule, a luxurious blend of minimalism seemed to rule the runway, with layered silhouettes and asymmetric volumes taking centre stage.

Parkchoongmoo AW2012

Parkchoongmoo presented a cohesive and beautiful show, which felt precise and sensual at the same time Using tactile knitwear, fluffy furs and liquid silks, her outfits looked sophisticated and easy to wear. Simplicity was best when it came to the women’s shows and designers sometimes got lost in styling tricks or derivative silhouettes.

Kaal E. Suktae

With Seoul Fashion Week, one has the feeling that designers are still looking for a voice of their own within womenswear, away from Western influences and concentrating on their own signatures. Lee Suktae, the designer behind Kaal E. Suktae, has -without a doubt- a bolder vision than most of his peers. His gorgeous collection, featuring fresh-looking prints, ingenuous fabric combinations and oversized coats, felt youthful and smart. Womenswear tends to be a bit of a mixed bag in Seoul, but Suktae’s collection was stylish and daring. A bit of risk taking tends to pay off.