Dublin-born, but London-based designer Alan Taylor has worked for designers such as Simone Rocha and Alexander McQueen, but decided to persue his own label half a year ago. His AW12 menswear collection ‘Untitled is “a considered selection of garments with an equally considered way in which they are constructed. It explores a seemingingly lost masculinity in both concept and silhouette.” View the complete collection after the jump.

The collection is a bricolage of cultural influences from different parts of the world: initially Taylor was mesmerised by SBTRKT, the London-based producer who is known for wearing graphic tribal masks with long fringes. After that, Alan turned to Phyllis Galembo’s photography, which documented eccentric tribes in Central and West Africa.

Dan Flavin’s abstract installations influenced Alan’s silhouettes, that feature abstract shoulder lines mixed with classic tailoring. In mirroring Flavin’s work, pleating became an important part of the collection. Taylor is exploring new notions of masculinity in his work, especially in the fashion film that features his AW12 collection (to be viewed below).

Therefore a key item in his Maske collection is the kilt, an item that was primarily seen as a masciline garment that was worn by warriors. Feeling it had lost its masculine significance over time, Taylor decided to re-interpret the garment in sheer in an attempt to bring the garment back in the modern mans wardrobe. Considering he is joined by Riccardo Tisci in this battle, we have high hopes for the future of menswear.

The collection is a delightful mix of fabric tone and texture. Playing with proportions and textures has alsways been my favourite thing about fashion.

The fashion film is uprising, and Taylor got former Nick Knight assistant Zoe Hitchen to shoot a beautiful video that features his AW12 collection. The film is named ‘Man’ as it is an interpretation of how modern society perceives masculinity. Riots in Paris, London and Northern Ireland provided a starting point for the film, yet Taylor managed to take (what is generally perceived as) acts of violent aggression and turn them into serene and romantic by cleverly framing the shots.

Taylors models is a classically trained dancer, whom Taylor chose because the poses rioters were captured in (on photo) looked rather similar to dance moves. The movement and persona of his model also is a another way in which Taylor is re-adressing masculinity, wanting to show that a man does not have to behave aggressively in order to prove his place in society.

Overall this is what Taylor sees as a portrayal of the modern man, confident and definite, Aggressive but with passion and just cause. A masculine man.