Written by Philippe Pourhashemi
Have you ever had a sequin overdose? It happened to me during the Saturday night gala of Malaysian International Fashion Week -also known as MIFW- where I was literally surrounded with bling, mini dresses, crystals and metallics. You could easily forget that Malaysia is a moderate Muslim country, but that’s precisely the beauty of it. Kuala Lumpur is a vibrant metropolis, with a laid-back, open and festive attitude. The 9th edition of Malaysian International Fashion Week was as varied and diverse as the communities shaping up the nation. Sensuality, embellishment, colour and a hint of decadence were buzzwords throughout the week’s shows, with an emphasis on evening wear and young, upcoming talent.

Malaysian designers seem very fond of French Couture and English tradition: hints of Victoriana and S&M were strong, as well as handicraft techniques and attention to detail. The collections featured on the very first day were presented by YODA -The Young Designers Arena- and dedicated to new voices. The dress was an ongoing focus, with dramatic shapes and body-con styles, emphasising curves and waistline. Malaysian women like to make an entrance when it comes to dressing up and some of these clothes were not for the faint-hearted. Ruffles, bustiers and transparency were important, as well as beading and intense red.

A real fashion star in Kuala Lumpur, Bernard Chandran offered a good compromise between European structure and Asian lavishness. His dresses featured innovative fabric combinations, as well as reflective sheen and contrasting textures. The overall silhouette was confident, contemporary and sexy. Chandran has been showing his clothes during London Fashion Week for a few seasons now and is gaining more and more fans with his relaxed -and elegant- take on dressing. Even though he studied fashion in the City of Light, Chandran loves reinterpreting traditional Malay clothing, such as the Kurung or Kebaya. Effortless chic is what he’s all about.

One the week’s highlights was the Islamic Fashion Festival, which I was very keen on attending. Muslim women are big fashion spenders in Malaysia, with a whole part of the market dedicated to their taste and needs. It was interesting to see how local designers used the rules of Islamic clothing as a creative challenge. They didn’t shy away from bold hues, prints or fluidity. The silhouettes were fresh, playful and fun. Think Catherine Baba meets Emilio Pucci.

As far as menswear is concerned, the best collections were shown during the Glam Gelaki Showcase, which took place on the 4th day of MIFW. Some of the looks were provocative, with plenty of skin on display. Even though sharp tailoring, saturated colour and body-conscious shapes were major themes, a looser silhouette seemed to prevail. You could still spot references to traditional Asian clothing, with sarong-like pants and long, loose tunics. The overall effect was strong, masculine and sensual.

With a 10 year anniversary coming up in 2012, MIFW seems keen on pushing new talent and promoting its young designers abroad. I spotted 2 promising names during the Kronenbourg Who’s Next fashion competition. With flat volumes, natural fabrics and striking embroidery, Alan Ooi delivered a convincing and powerful line-up, which clearly stood out with its conceptual flavour. Inspired by Japan and graphic effects, Man Chien was also one of the most creative young designers around. She won the first prize, which will allow her to showcase her clothes during the September 2012 edition of Who’s Next in Paris. Interestingly enough, both designers graduated from Raffles Design Institute, one of Asia’s most prominent and established schools, nurturing tomorrow’s fashion mavericks.